Jancis Robinson, co-auteur de Wine Grapes, défend la diversité des cépages et s’oppose aux propos de Robert Parker:

I could not be more enthusiastic about indigenous grape varieties and the need to retain maximum biodiversity in the vineyard.

Elle répond sur son blog à un article de Robert Parker qui fait l’apologie des grands cépages internationaux, dictant le principe de sélection naturelle. Si les chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon ou encore Syrah sont devenus si populaires c’est qu’ils sont, selon lui, les meilleurs. Les cépages originaux sont quant à eux sous-représentés car de qualité inférieure.

Chardonnay produces some of the greatest dry white wines in the world and has done so everywhere from California to the East Coast of the United States to Western Europe. Same thing for Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah (although Pinot Noir, at least from France, seems to be the one exception to these crucifications). Of course, they would have you believe some godforsaken grapes that, in hundreds and hundreds of years of viticulture, wine consumption, etc., have never gotten traction because they are rarely of interest (such as Trousseau, Savagnin, Grand Noir, Negrette, Lignan Blanc, Peloursin, Auban, Calet, Fongoneu and Blaufrankisch) can produce wines (in truth, rarely palatable unless lost in a larger blend) that consumers should be beating a path to buy and drink.

Jancis Robinson répond simplement : certes les plus grands vins proviennent des cépages internationaux mais la majorité des vins produits à une échelle industrielle à partir de ces mêmes cépages, viennent dégrader leur image.

The fact that 90% of all Chardonnay is deeply dull should not diminish our respect for Domaine de la Romanée-Conti’s Montrachet. Nor should Blossom Hill Merlot make us think any the worse of Petrus, and, so as not to be too Francocentric, I would also wave an enormous red, white and green flag in favour of the likes of Sassicaia, Ornellaia and San Leonardo, which tower so definitively over Yellow Tail Cabernet Sauvignon despite being made from the same ubiquitous grape variety.

Par ailleurs, Jancis Robinson dénonce le rejet systématique  des cépages originaux par Robert Parker alors que toutes les régions viticoles ont des trésors à nous faire découvrir issus de cépages rares et autochtones.

Personally I would put up a sturdy defence of the thrilling quality and distinction of some wines made from Trousseau and Savagnin of the Jura, Négrette of Fronton, Callet (sic) of Mallorca and, especially, the Blaufränkisch that is responsible for many of the finest reds currently made in what was the Austro-Hungarian empire.

Retrouvez l’article complet sur le site de Jancis Robinson